[驴行指南]高山介绍[雪隆包]

hongjun · 发表于 2006-10-26 21:23

还有一杭州的游姓山友和当地一向导登顶哈，怎么就给略去了呢？

hongjun · 发表于 2006-10-26 21:24

并且03年贵州阿尔曼是上到5300的。

尼玛部落 · 发表于 2006-10-26 22:45

<div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder">以下是引用hongjun在2006-10-26 21:23:00的发言： 还有一杭州的游姓山友和当地一向导登顶哈，怎么就给略去了呢？</div>谢谢提醒！你是牦牛吗？你说的当地向导可是我表哥四保？？我好象听表哥说了，但不能确定哈！！！！！

[此贴子已经被作者于2006-10-26 22:56:49编辑过]

尼玛部落 · 发表于 2006-10-27 19:12

高山介绍[雪隆包]

高山介绍[雪隆包]

天空 · 发表于 2006-10-27 19:16

<div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder">以下是引用尼玛部落在2006-10-26 19:13:00的发言： <div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder">以下是引用天空在2006-10-24 19:54:00的发言： 顶一个前年五、一去了老君沟，就是住在尼玛部落，主人热情哈。好地方

</div>谢谢！！！！！！！有机会在来哈！！！！！！！！</div>要来的哈，干女儿在得嘛

尼玛部落 · 发表于 2006-10-27 20:29

雪隆包峰位于四川省北部阿坝州理县上孟乡，海拔5527米。当地嘉绒<a href="http://travel.yninfo.com/mzfq/subject/16/index.html" target="_blank">藏族</a>称为"额尔什古"神山。地处青藏高原东部边缘，有典型的亚高原切割地貌与气候特征，沟谷纵横，高山湖泊遍布，原始森林密布。该山景色优美，难度适中，营地条件优良，适于那些有一定技术攀登经验，有独立修路能力的攀登队伍，是一座入门级的技术型山峰。 交犕
 牐牫啥贾零氪ǎ喝个半小时（成都茶店子车站，最早两班是早上七点及八点发车，八点后每半小时有一班）车费32.5元。 牐犮氪ㄖ辽厦希憾个半小时（每天的中午一点四十分有一班），如包车可打以下联系电话：（0837-6822465找江师傅，车牌号：川U06209）车费14元。 牐犐厦现零氪ǎ海ㄏ奶焓泵刻煸缟掀叩闶分有一班，冬天是每天早上的八点有一班） 牐犉渌交通方式：从成都坐至马尔康、理县、米亚罗的班车，在汶川或薜城下车。理县每天有一班车经过薜城至上孟。时间大约在二点左右经过薜城。薜城可以租到面包车（薜城至上孟大约三十公里左右，路况为石子路，每公里三角，约要一佰元）。 牐上孟（海拔2100米）至大海子：（海拔4100米，登山大本营）约二十公里，从新海子至大海子是50度以上之字形坡，下雨滑，有难度。建议分两天时间上升，第一天宿新海子，约用时六小时，第二天从新海子至大海子口约三个半小时。　 食品采购
汶川县基本上可以采购到所需的所有食品。如果高山食品在出发前已采购好，可选择在汶川、薜城（菜场在进上孟的路口）、上孟（可以在农家直接购卖，价格偏贵）采购肉类及蔬菜。

尼玛部落 · 发表于 2006-10-27 20:31

住宿通讯    牐成都住宿地很多，推荐梦之旅国际青年旅馆，成都火车站坐57路至武侯祠车站下车既可。位置是：成都市武侯祠大街242号，电话：028-85570315，这里房价从二十五到八十元价格不等。 牐上孟住宿：有许多的接待站，一般价格是每天40元包食宿，来登山的朋友一般住在向家接待站（尼玛部落），尼玛部落的电话是：0837-6837023。手机 ：13678376482。<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;"> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">新海子后山路难行，如请背夫，四五月期间一般需<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">100<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">元<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">/<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">天。十一登山应该可以少到<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">80<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">元<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">/<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">天。当地无登山向导，背夫就可以做为向导，带到<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">4100<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">米的大海子大本营。四五月期间当地大部份劳力会上山去挖虫草，需提前联系背夫及向导，联系电话：<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">0837-6837023<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">．找尼玛或雷清（人称雷幺爸），在当地有威信，在山上能帮上不少忙。<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;"> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">低海拔技术型山峰－－雪隆包<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;"> <span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">牐<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">雪隆包是典型的低海拔技术型山峰，各种类型地形一应俱全，虽然没有极端困难的地段，但技术地形比较密集，需要较为全面的攀登技巧和器材使用经验。在气候条件上，该地区天气周期短，好坏天气变化剧烈，山地小气候影响明显，在坏天气周期中，虽然极端恶劣天气不常见，但也足以影响攀登。所以在队伍规模较大登山周期较长攀登经验不足的计划中应大规模修路，以确保较多的登顶人数。而登山周期较短的队伍应采取小规模的阿尔卑斯式以争取时间。　<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;"> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">登山季节<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;"> <span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">牐 <span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">春季末期至秋季末期均可攀登，天气周期大约为<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">5-7<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">天，十月份晴朗夜间最低温度不低于零下<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">10<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">度。夏季降水频繁，天气周期不易掌握，冰川不稳定。冬季因积雪过厚，温度较低也不适合攀登。值得一提的是，该地区山地小气候作用显著，每天下午<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">4<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: ˎ̥; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">点左右都会有天气变化，尤其是好坏周期交替期间尤为明显，所以上午早出发是合理的战术。

[此贴子已经被作者于2006-10-27 20:34:57编辑过]

尼玛部落 · 发表于 2006-10-27 20:38

<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">登山路线<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">　 <span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">　　历次攀登雪隆包的队伍均采用东北壁路线。 <span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">牐<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">大海子（<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">4100<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-fon|-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">）是一个南北走向的狭长高山湖泊，东壁大本营可设在大海子南端小山坡上或北端水边。 <span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">牐<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">由大本营沿碎石坡上升至约<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">4400<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">米处需攀登一段<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">60<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">米长，坡度约<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">55-60<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">度的岩壁，<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">2002<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">年<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">10<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">月，云南山友王志明在这条路线顶部打入一枚<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">bolt<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">，利用这枚<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">bolt<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">可以快速安全通过这里。 <span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">翻上岩壁后，需沿右向的积雪滚石坡坡继续上升，翻越一小段岩石地形后接近东壁冰川下端（<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">4500<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">），如果攀登计划时间充裕可以在此设立<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">C1<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">，以减轻攀登强度，增加应变能力。 <span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">登山路线 <span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">牐<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">继续向右行进一小段后，应及时切上冰川。由于这一段路线视野并不开朗，地形也与从大本营观察时印象不同，很容易错过最佳路线，好在路线不长，坚持上升后一切就会清楚明朗。
 <span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">牐<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">冰川上裂缝随处可见，在接近<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">5000<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">米处裂缝发育得更加明显，需小心通过。经过裂缝区后，坡度明显减缓，这里是设立<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">C2<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">最佳地点。
 <span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">牐

尼玛部落 · 发表于 2006-10-27 20:39

<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">从<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">C2<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">向顶峰方向可以望见带雪檐的冰川边缘和雪檐下陡峭的雪坡，雪坡下部渐渐平缓与<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">C2<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">所在平台相连，这里是通向顶峰的必经之路。
 <span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">牐<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">雪坡接近山脊时接近<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">60<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">度，翻上山脊后便可一路直上，经过大段的坡度<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">40<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">度左右的雪坡就可以看到主峰的石头顶峰。接近顶峰的雪脊非常陡峭，在这里可以观察到西面是极端陡峭的绝壁和南方遥远的四姑娘峰的主峰，以及东面<span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体;">BC<span style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">边的大海子。

尼玛部落 · 发表于 2006-10-27 20:41

所需个人装备：如在五一期间登山，由于降雪太大，衣服、鞋、雪套的防水性能一定要好。 冲锋衣冲锋裤绒衣绒裤绒帽防水手套羊毛袜雪套登山鞋背包睡袋防潮垫上升器下降器冰爪长冰镐头盔扁带绳套安全带主锁快挂头灯风镜备用电池套锅小勺防水火柴军刀个人药品保温水瓶洗漱用具防晒霜唇膏照相机及胶卷 牐所需公用装备：BC用帐篷高山帐路绳路旗辅绳(8.5) 工兵铲雪铲雪锥岩锥雪锥冰锥 GPS 对讲机套锅手纸毛巾闹表垃圾袋雪袋塑料袋高山气罐炉头

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